Cosmetic compositions containing Nigrospora sphaerica extracts

The invention relates to compositions for topical application to human skin which compositions contain extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica and to methods of using the compositions for treatment and conditioning, and particularly for lightening, of skin.

Many people are concerned with the degree of pigmentation of their skin. For example, people with age spots or freckles may wish such pigmented spots to be less pronounced. Others may wish to reduce the skin darkening caused by exposure to sunlight or to lighten their natural skin color. To meet this need, many attempts have been made to develop products that reduce the pigment production in the melanocytes. However, the substances identified thus far tend to have either low efficacy or undesirable side effects, such as, for example, toxicity or skin irritation. Therefore, there is a continuing need for new skin lightening agents, with improved overall effectiveness, as well as agents that lend themselves to ease of processing in their manufacture.

The present invention is based at least in part on the discovery that extracts of the fungus Nigrospora sphaerica have at least comparable and/or demonstrably better skin lightening activity than known skin lightening agents. The use of Nigrospora sphaerica for cosmetic applications has not heretofore been known.

The present invention alleviates the deficiencies of the prior art and includes, in part, a novel composition containing a pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable carrier and an extract of Nigrospora spaerica . The inventive compositions contain about 0.000001 to about 50% of extract of Nigrospora sphaerica , preferably, an organic solvent extract thereof. Preferably, the amount of the extract is about 0.00001% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.001% to about 7%, and even more preferably about 0.01% to about 5%, to attain optimum skin lightening activity at a minimum cost.

The present invention is based at least in part on the discovery that extracts of the fungus Nigrospora sphaerica have at least comparable skin and/or better skin lightening activity than known skin lightening agents.

In the preferred embodiment of the invention, further skin benefit agents may be included in the compositions and inventive method, such as alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone; Vitamin B and/or C derivatives; dioic acids, retinoids, resorcinol derivatives, betulinic acid, vanillic acid, betulinic acid, hydrolactin, and mixtures thereof. Organic and inorganic (e.g. micronized metal oxides) sunscreens may also be included. Organic sunscreens may include Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-8, Methoxycinnamate, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl-PABA, Glyceryl PABA, Homosalate, Methyl anthranilate, Octocrylene, Octyl dimethyl PABA, Octyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL MCX), Octyl salicylate, PABA, 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, TEA salicylate, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, Benzophenone-1, Benzophenone-2, Benzophenone-6, Benzophenone-12, 4-Isopropyl dibenzoyl methane, Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (PARSOL 1789), Etocrylene, and mixtures thereof.

The invention also includes methods of treating and conditioning skin by applying topically thereto the inventive compositions containing extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica . The invention also preferably includes a method of lightening the skin by applying thereto the inventive compositions. Compositions are useful in preventing or repairing such skin conditions as wrinkling, laxity, and photo damage.

The inventive compositions and methods have effective skin lightening properties, may be easier to deliver to the skin, and are cost-effective and available from natural sources.

The present invention relates to compositions for topical application to human skin which compositions contain extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica and to methods of using the compositions for treatment and conditioning, and particularly for lightening, of skin.

Nigrospora is a filamentous dematiaceous fungus widely distributed in soil, decaying plants, and seeds. Nigrospora colonies are rapid growing, compact, woolly, at first white, becoming gray with black areas and a black reverse color. Nigrospora sphaerica produce conidiophores which forcibly discharge the conidia. Conidia are black, solitary, unicellular, slightly flattened horizontally, and have a thin equatorial germ slit. Nigrospora sphaerica , the best known species of the genus Nigrospora , may be found in the Hawaiian Islands and around the Pacific Ocean, among other places. The extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica suitable for use in present compositions are organic solvent extracts, e.g., alcoholic extracts (methanol) or ethyl acetate extracts.

According to the present invention, extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica must be presented in the composition in an amount of about 0.000001% to about 50% by weight of the composition. Preferably, the amount of the extract is about 0.00001% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.001% to about 7%, and even more preferably about 0.01% to about 5%, to attain optimum skin lightening activity at a minimum cost.

As used herein, the term “cosmetic composition” is intended to describe compositions for topical application to human skin.

As used herein, the term “comprising” means including, made up of, composed of, consisting and/or consisting essentially of.

The term “skin” as used herein includes the skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, axilla, hands, legs, and scalp.

Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about”. All amounts are by weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified.

It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration.

Nigrospora sphaerica

The extracts according to the present invention are from a material of the Kingdom of fungi; Phylum of Ascomycota; Genus of Nigrospora ; and Species of sphaerica. Nigrospora sphaerica , as used in accordance with the present invention, was harvested in the Hawaiian Islands and around the Pacific Ocean. After harvesting, the organisms are grown in a first culture medium, from which the specific strain is isolated and removed to be grown in a second culture medium. The Nigrospora sphaerica is then isolated from the second culture medium, followed by extraction. The culture and extraction techniques used in accordance with the present invention are those known or further developed by those skilled in the art of microbiology. The particular culture protocol under which the microorganism was grown and the extraction protocol that was used to prepare the extracts that were screened are set forth hereinbelow. The culture and extraction protocols are further translated below into detailed recipes for media preparation and methods of extraction.

Lead Collection Details

The following table contains information about the geographic location of collection, the media used to isolate the microorganism, and the morphological characteristics of the microorganism growing on agar isolation plates.

Fermentation Media for Fungal Cultures and Protocol

Add Media components to 1 L seawater adjusted to pH=4.0±0.2.

Ferment in Stationary liquid for 16 days @25° C.

Extraction Protocol

Add approximately equal volume of HP-20 resin beads (DIAION brand, Mitsubishi, Japan) to the whole broth culture.

Shake for 2 hr.

Filter, wash twice with equal volume H 2 O

Hold vacuum for 45 min. to dry

Extract residue with an equal volume of MeOH (methanol). Other suitable organic solvents include but are not limited to ethanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, chloroform, etc.

Filter, remove solvent.

Identification of Microorganisms

The identity of the microorganisms was confirmed to be Nigrospora sphaerica using the following procedure. Sample results, including fatty acid profiles and library matches were performed by Microbial ID Inc., Newark, Del.

Optional Skin Benefit Agents

Preferred cosmetic compositions are those suitable for the application to human skin according to the method of the present invention, which optionally, but preferably, include a skin benefit agent in addition to the inventive coumarin derived compounds.

Suitable additional skin benefit agents include anti-aging, wrinkle-reducing, skin whitening, anti-acne, and sebum reduction agents. Examples of these include alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, Vitamic B and C derivatives, dioic acids, retinoids; betulinic acid; vanillic acid; allantoin, a placenta extract; hydrolactin; and resorcinol derivatives.

Cosmetically Acceptable Carrier

The cosmetically acceptable vehicle may act as a dilutant, dispersant or carrier for the skin benefit ingredients in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.

The vehicle may be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion. Preferably, the compositions are aqueous or an emulsion, especially water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, preferentially oil in water emulsion. Water when present will be in amounts which may range from 5 to 99%, preferably from 20 to 70%, optimally between 40 and 70% by weight.

Besides water, relatively volatile solvents may also serve as carriers within compositions of the present invention. Most preferred are monohydric C 1 -C 3 alkanols. These include ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol. The amount of monohydric alkanol may range from 1 to 70%, preferably from 10 to 50%, optimally between 15 to 40% by weight.

Emollient materials may also serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of silicone oils and synthetic esters. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1 to 50%, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight.

Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety. The term “volatile” as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities less than about 5 centistokes at 25° C. while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes. Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5 to about 25 million centistokes at 25° C. Among the preferred non-volatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 10 to about 400 centistokes at 25° C.

Among the ester emollients are:

(1) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate. (2) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols. (3) Polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl mono-stearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters. (4) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate and arachidyl behenate. (5) Sterol esters, of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples.

Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be included as cosmetically acceptable carriers for compositions of this invention. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic and erucic acids.

Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol-type may also be employed as cosmetically acceptable carriers in compositions of this invention. The humectant aids in increasing the effectiveness of the emollient, reduces scaling, stimulates removal of built-up scale and improves skin feel. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. For best results the humectant is preferably propylene glycol or sodium hyaluronate. The amount of humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 30%, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition.

Thickeners may also be utilized as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention. Typical thickeners include crosslinked acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 982), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 1382), taurate polymer, cellulosic derivatives and natural gums. Among useful cellulosic derivatives are sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural gums suitable for the present invention include guar, xanthan, sclerotium, carrageenan, pectin and combinations of these gums. Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001 to 5%, usually from 0.001 to 1%, optimally from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.

Collectively the water, solvents, silicones, esters, fatty acids, humectants and/or thickeners will constitute the cosmetically acceptable carrier in amounts from 1 to 99.9%, preferably from 80 to 99% by weight.

An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emulsifier employed.

Surfactants may also be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Total concentration of the surfactant will range from 0.1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 20%, optimally from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition. The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are those with a C 10 -C 20 fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C 2 -C 10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di- C 8 -C 20 fatty acids; block copolymers (ethylene oxide/propylene oxide); and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic surfactants.

Preferred anionic surfactants include soap, alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C 8 -C 20 acyl isethionates, acyl glutamates, C 8 -C 20 alkyl ether phosphates and combinations thereof.

Optional Components

In the cosmetic compositions of the invention, there may be optionally added plasticizers; calamine; antioxidants; chelating agents; as well as sunscreens.

Other adjunct minor components may also be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions. These ingredients may include coloring agents, pigments, opacifiers, and perfumes. Amounts of these other adjunct minor components may range anywhere from 0.001% up to 20% by weight of the composition.

Sunscreens. For use as sunscreen, metal oxides may be used alone or in mixture and/or in combination with organic sunscreens. Examples of organic sunscreens include but are not limited those set forth in the table below.

The amount of the organic sunscreens in the cosmetic composition is preferably in the range of about 0.1 wt % to about 10 wt %, more preferably about 1 wt % to 5 wt %. Preferred organic sunscreens are PARSOL MCX and Parsol 1789, due to their effectiveness and commercial availability.

Use of the Composition

The fungal extracts, compositions and methods according to the invention are intended primarily as a personal care product for topical application to human skin, as well as to lighten the skin, to reduce the degree of pigmentation in the skin, or to even the skin tone.

In use, a small quantity of the composition, for example from 1 to 5 ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers or a suitable device.

Product Form and Packaging

The cosmetic composition of the invention can be formulated as a lotion having a viscosity of from 4,000 to 10,000 mPas, a fluid cream having a viscosity of from 10,000 to 20,000 mPas, or a cream having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 100,000 mPas or above. The composition can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer. For example, a lotion or fluid cream can be packaged in a bottle or a roll-ball applicator or a propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation. When the composition is a cream, it can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar. When the composition is a solid or semi-solid stick, it may be packaged in a suitable container for manually or mechanically pushing out or extruding the composition.

The invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically acceptable composition as herein defined.

The following examples are by way of example, not by way of limitation, of the principles of the present invention, to illustrate the best mode of carrying out the invention.