Use of solubilized, anionic polyurethanes in skin care compositions

Hand and Body Moisturizing Lotions

A. Polyurethane in the Aqueous Phase

Phase B was combined and heated to 80° C. Phase A was combined and heated to 80° C. Phase A was then added to Phase B and mixed for 15 minutes. The mixture was cooled to 40° C. Phase C was combined and added to mixture A/B at 40° C., mixing thoroughly. Phase D was added to mixture A/B/C and mixed until uniform. The mixture was cooled to room temperature.

B. Polyurethane in the Oil Phase

Phase B was combined and heated to 80° C. Phase A was combined and heated to 80° C. Phase A was added to Phase B and mixed for 15 minutes. Mixture A/B was cooled to 40° C. Phase C was added to mixture A/B at 40° C., mixing until uniform. The mixture was cooled to room temperature.

Skin Tightening Emulsion

Phase B was combined and heated to 80° C. Phase A has combined and heated to 80° C. Phase A was added to Phase B at 80° C. and mixed for 15 minutes. The mixture was cooled to 40° C., and Phase C was added, mixing thoroughly. The mixture was cooled to room temperature.

Moisturizing Face Cream

A.

Phase B was combined and heated to 80° C. Phase A was combined and heated to 80° C. Phase A was added to Phase B at 80° C. and mixed for 15 minutes. The mixture was cooled to 40° C., and Phase C was added, mixing thoroughly. The mixture was cooled to room temperature.

B. Example 3A was repeated except that FLEXAN® 130 polymer was partially substituted for the polyurethane/polyacrylate.

Moisturizing Face Lotion

A.

Phase B was combined and heated to 80° C. Phase A was combined and heated to 80° C. Phase A was added to Phase B at 80° C. and mixed for 15 minutes. The mixture was cooled to 40° C., to which Phase C was added, and mixed until uniform. The mixture was cooled to room temperature.

Sunscreen Emulsion

A.

The first three ingredients of Phase A were combined and mixed well. Neo Heliopan BB was added and mixed at room temperature for 10 minutes. While mixing, the mixture was heated to 80° C. Parsol 1789 was added and mixed for 5 more minutes while keeping temperature at 80° C. Tego Care 450 was added and mixed 2-3 minutes. Syncrowax ERL-C was added and mixed for another 2-3 minutes. The remaining ingredients of Phase A are added and mixed, keeping the temperature of Phase A at 80° C.

In a separate vessel, Carbopol EDT2020 was sifted in room temperature deionized water and mixed while heating to 75°-80° C. Versene 100 was added when Carbopol EDT2020 was completely dispersed.

Butylene Glycol and TEA were premixed and the polyurethane/polyacrylate was added. The deionized water of Phase C was heated to 85° C. then added to the other components of phase C at 85° C. Phase C was mixed for 5 minutes while keeping temperature at 80-85 C.

Phase A was slowly added to Phase B. Phase D was then added to mixture A/B until a pH of 6.5-6.6 is reached and mixed well. High shear mixing was applied and Phase C was added to mixture A/B/D at a temperature of 80-85° C. Phase E was added at a temperature of no more than 55° C. While cooling to 30° C., moderate mixing was applied. The mixture was then homogenized (˜9,000 rpm) at 30° C. for 3-5 minutes. The water loss was calculated and added back in to the mixture.

B. Example 5A was repeated except that the amount of polyurethane/polyacrylate used was 3.64% w/w (1.0% on a dry weight basis) and water was added to make up the weight.

C. Example 5A was repeated except that 2.00% w/w DERMACRYL® polymer (commercially available from National Starch and Chemical Company) was added in Phase C and the polyurethane/polyacrylate was not used.

A subjective sensory panel (8 panelists) compared Samples 5A and 5C with the following results shown in Table 1:

Table 1 shows that the polyurethane/polyacrylate sample is significantly less greasy, less tacky, less shiny and is more quickly absorbed than the comparative example.

D. Example 5A was repeated except that the polyurethane/polyacrylate was omitted and in Phase C, 0.63% w/w TEA was used. Sample 5A provided improved afterfeel after a gentle water rinse.

Samples D (control), A (2% polyurethane acrylate, dry basis), and C (2% Dermacryl, dry basis) were evaluated for in-vitro SPF efficiency. The control was found to confer a SPF of 36, as compared to 53 for sample A and 65 for sample C, demonstrating the film-forming behavior of solution polyurethanes.

Sunscreen Emulsions

A.

Water, Tetrasodium EDTA and Glycerin of Phase A were combined at room temperature. Carbomer was slowly sprinkled onto the surface while stirring. After incorporating all the Carbomer, Phase A was heated to 80° C. Phase B was prepared separately, heated to 80° C. and stirred until uniform. Phase B was slowly added to Phase A with mixing. When the mixture appeared uniform, Phase C was added with mixing. After achieving uniformity again, the heat was turned off and mixing was switched to sweep. Sweep mixing was continued throughout cool-down. Phase D was added with stirring at 45° C. Water was added to make up for loss during heating and stirred to room temperature.

B. Example 6A was repeated except that water was substituted for the polyurethane/polyacrylate.

Both samples produced a smooth, rich, white-colored emulsion. The samples were tested for SPF and water resistance using the following methodology.

Instrumentation:

A Labsphere UV1000S Ultraviolet Transmittance Analyzer was used to determine the absorbence spectra of the samples.

Substrate:

Vitro-Skin®—the skin was hydrated prior to use. Pieces of the Vitro-Skin® were cut to fit the slide mounts being used. A small hydration chamber was used. Approximately 200 ml of hydrating solution (30% glycerin in distilled water) were added to the chamber. The chamber was sealed and kept at a temperature of approximately 23° C. for sixteen (16) hours. This provided the recommended humidity atmosphere for hydration of the Vitro-Skin®. After Sixteen (16) hours, the skin was ready for use. Test materials were applied to the rough side of the Vitro-Skin®.

Five samples of substrate were used for each sample. One reference sample was also be prepared.

The substrate was placed on a balance and a 2 mg/cm 2 portion of the sample was applied using a syringe with a fine blunt needle. The substrate was removed from the balance and transferred to a foam block to simulate the flexibility of human dermis. The sample was distributed on the substrate by dotting the sunscreen on and noting the weight. The sunscreen-coated substrate was removed from the balance and spread evenly over the site using a fingercot for 20-30 strokes (approximately 20 seconds).

After product application, the samples were allowed to dry for at least 15 minutes to let the emulsion break down. A blank (no sunscreen applied) substrate will serve as the reference untreated control.

Measurements:

Measurements were performed using the Labsphere UV-1000S Ultraviolet Transmittance Analyzer. A baseline scan was performed using the reference sample. A second scan of the reference sample was run.

The results demonstrated a flat baseline at 100% ±0.5%.

Measurements for the sunscreen-substrate were then performed. Five measurements per sample were performed at various spots on the sample to ensure proper spreading of the test material.

Water-Resistant

METHODOLOGY: The Vitro-Skin® was immersed in a water bath for forty (40) minutes. After the dry time, the sunscreen-substrate preparation was insulted with a full spectrum UV dose corresponding to 1 MED times ⅓ the test material SPF value. It was calculated as follows:

U ⁢ ⁢ V ⁢ ⁢ Dose = SPF 3 × 1 ⁢ ⁢ J ⁢ / ⁢ cm 2

Very Water-Resistant

METHODOLOGY: The Vitro-Skin® was immersed in a water bath for eighty (80) minutes. After the dry time, the sunscreen-substrate preparation was insulted with a full spectrum UV dose corresponding to 1 MED times ⅓ the test material SPF value. It was calculated as follows:

As can be seen from Table 2, the use of the polyurethane/polyacrylate added SPF protection as well as water resistance.

Water Resistant Sunscreen

Phase B ingredients were combined and heated to 75° C. while mixing. The mixture was cooled to room temperature and premixed Phase A was added.

Sunscreen with Emulsified Polyurethane

Phase A ingredients were premixed. Phase B ingredients were premixed and slowly added to Phase A while homogenizing. A white, thin emulsion formed.

Moisturizing Lotion

Phase A ingredients were mixed well. Phase B ingredients were mixed and slowly added to Phase A. The mixture was homogenized.